This page is what your Jewelry Repairs should look like when Done Right

 

These are some of the most commonly seen repairs done in jewelry stores. These pictures are to illustrate the level of workmanship you can expect from J. Rose at Valencia Jewelers. Anytime you pick up repairs done by any jeweler, the work should be clean, smooth, without toolmarks, dents, pits, bubbles or any visible sign that work has been done. In other words, if you can see it, its done wrong.

Prongs are gold posts that hold the diamonds on your ring. Over time, just like tires, they wear away so slowly that it is not noticible and your diamonds will fall out when enough of this gold has worn away.

#1 Notice how flat these prongs are and how little is holding in the diamonds on the ends.

Many jewelers will use solder to rebuild prongs. I use actual gold. This should provide enough wear time that it lasts as long as the originals did from new. #1 They should not look bulbous, or like anything has been done They should look like continuations of the base wire and extend just above the stone. They should be well rounded and not snag on clothes.

This is another example of prongs wearing except that the part with the prongs is removable. This is how many engagement type rings are made. 

#1 is lifted, this is a common 'last chance' to get the repair work done brfore stone loss.

#2 is a worn flat prong.

#3 is still borderline.

#1 is the new part, called a Head, replacing the whole head ensures new thick prongs all around the stone and restarts the clock on wear. (20 years?) Some jewelers opt to retip one prong at a time. I feel this approach is a disservice to the customer because the rest of the prongs are still in danger causing the customer to return many times to complete the job.

New Head installed and Stone Reset. #1  The join between the head and the ring should be clean and crisp but soldered thoroughly. #2 The prongs should meet the stone as though they were formed by the stone. Notice that they have a uniform thickness providing years of wear.

#1 This is an example of a rope chain break or it might be completely broken. The repair will be the same. First it is cut, then rewoven to match the twist.

Rope chains must be soldered on 2 sides #1 and #2 The arrow points at the repaired area between the black lines to isolate it. It should be invisible with links laying upon one another as in all the other links pattern.

This is an example of resetting a customer's treasured diamonds. #1 In this case, We are only using the smaller diamonds in the yellow pendant.

#2 is the blank plate which holds 7 small diamonds

#3 is the chain to be attached to both sides of the plate to make a 7 diamond necklace

The seven diamonds are as small as the letters on this dime.

#1 Tiny half rings soldered to the sides of the bar with no solder showing. The cut chain attached with equally heavy soldered rings for long wear.

#2 Zoom to see that there are no scratches, toolmarks or solder showing.

Another elegant heirloom from Valencia Jewelers!

BY  J. ROSE

10.20.19

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